As I was walking, I saw myself in the mirror and I saw scratch marks on my neck. I do not have any pets and nobody was with me. I did NOT have those marks before either. Then I all of a sudden got a nosebleed and I heard some murmuring. I was so prettified but being the curious person I am I wanted to investigate. I went around to where I heard the murmuring and grabbed a tissue for my nose. Then I went to where the vase smashed. But the glass was gone. Immediately, I ran back upstairs into my bedroom and downloaded this app because I really no other choice. I had feeling it would be a fraud.
I then saw a demon next to my bed. But would use this again:. Up to six family members will be able to use this app with Family Sharing enabled. This app is only available on the App Store for iOS devices. Screenshots iPhone iPad. Description Find ghosts and communicate with spirits, using this groundbreaking free app. Size Category Entertainment. Compatibility Requires iOS 9. Compatible with iPhone, iPad and iPod touch.
Or maybe I just need to experiment! Normally I would define hot process as a method where an external heat source is used and the soap is moulded after saponification is done. In cold process the soap saponifies in the mould which technically would make this cold process — even if the moulded soap is the kept in a heated oven.
You would like to know if this effect could be achieved without any external heat source? I think it can. If you use a 1kg log mould like I did you are likely to be able to get the high water soap to enter full gel phase without the low water soap entering gel phase provided that you cover and insulate the mould very carefully right after pouring the soap. You want to insulate as soon as possible in order for as much as possible of the heat generated by saponification to build up inside the soap rather than escape.
Your soaps are always so stylish and sophisticated, and beautifully photographed. I really appreciate the detail and explanation you give as to your methods and the theory behind it. Looking forward to trying this technique.
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Thank you Carol! I hope your version turns out beautiful! Elegant suds! I love how your words show your true passion for soap making and the knowledge you have on soap is refreshing to read! This is such a cool project and I really appreciate the depth of explanation. Keep up the good work! You are a true Master! I am so inspired by your creations and how you keep challenging yourself to do more! Thank you so much for sharing your great knowledge with us! Clara, Your soap is absolutely gorgeous. I love it. It looks so classy. Who would have thought to experiment with lye and water solutions in one batch of soap.
So inspiring!!! You have taken the science of soaping and created a beautiful art. I love the white on white effect. As another mentioned, your blog is very well written and so easy to read. I have so much to learn. Thanks for posting!
Thank you! Glad you find it easy to read. Just briliant! I just love your work. I will try the Ghost Swirl as soon i have time left. I find your experiments fascinating, your soaps lovely, and your creativity quite wonderful!
The thing I am most curious about with the concept of different water amounts within the same bar of soap is this — what happens a year or two down the road as the water evaporates out of the soap? Will the different sections of the soap pull away from each other? Or as you use the fully dried soap will the less dense sections go faster leaving blank spaces in your soap? It would be interesting to see if it makes a difference. Thank you for all you share!
On the cut surface of the soap you will see this as more of an indentation on the high water portions. In my experience there is not much difference in how the high and low water portions wear in use once the soap has cured for about sex weeks or so. But, in my glycerine river experiments where each bar was half low water soap and half high water soap side by side, the borderline between the two portions wore down considerably faster than any other part. This happened with every bar in both batches.
Thank you so much for your articles, they are always so instructive and inspiring. After reading your previous posts on water contents, I had tried playing around with various patterns creating from various concentrations. The different water contents dried differently and as a result some parts of the soap are thinner than others, while the difference in shade has lessened. Did you experience the same ageing process? In my experience the high water portions will lighten as the water evaporates and as I said in a previous reply, the high water portions will shrink more as water evaporates and so the low water portions will seem to protrude.
Yet, I have one bar of the green batch in front of me and although the green from the plant pigment is no longer very green, the contrast between the darker high water soap and the lighter low water soap is still quite strong. I think the different portions expand differently while hot creating pressure and tension differences that are released as the soap is cut.
Dear Clara, I have done it!!!!! Thank you for sharing your experiences! Best wishes Lidiya. Oooh at last I have found the time to read and study your blog Clara. After my first succesfull experiments in the liquid soap world it is now time to return to bar soaping again. And you have inspired me, again!. I have some Red Brazilian palm oils and I would love to try this with that.
So refreshing your writing and your investigating mind. Thank you for your blogs I thoroughly enjoy them and learn with you from your experience. What a fascinating post and interesting discussion!!
You inspired me to try this technique and share my results in my little blog. Thank you for sharing! This is gorgeous!
Color me blonde though, I still cannot figure out how after cutting them vertically, you managed to get the cool pattern on each part of soap cutting it then horizontally…?? Maybe my loaf mold is a different size than yours, but if I make a pattern on the top of mine, and cut it horizontally, you would see noting on the bottom bar. Can you please clarify for those of us who are unable to imagine this properly? Thanks so much! BTW, when you go through this oven gel phase, how long do you cure the bars for? What size ounces do they end up?
Just beautiful! Hi Kirsten! The soap is poured into the mould using dividers, i e the different portions of soap lie side by side in the mould from the bottom of the mould to the top.
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The swirl is then done through the entire soap, not just on the very top. Oven-processing soap does not in itself shorten the time that the bar needs to cure to become hard and long-lasting. The only thing that effectively can shorten the cure time is a steep water discount. The less water you add to your soap, the faster the water will evaporate from the soap.
I make most of my bars to be just above g when cured. It is a loaf mold then? I discount water all of the time, but in something so delicate as this, I might be worried that a discount might make it set before I could get the pattern all finished. So beautiful Thanks for taking the time to answer my question. Yes, it is a loaf mould. Gave it a try today. Several firsts for me.
The swirl pattern not perfect, but pretty. High H2O part gelled! Now, just need to be patient. So excited. Hi Kerry! I made this with three layers then a hanger swirl. It turned out beautiful and actually looks like real ghosts in the pattern. Now to see where I can go from here with this technique.
ThanQ so much for sharing this with us all. This is an exquisite soap. I love it! I started soaping a month ago and have had several fails, which seem to be more than not and several sucesses. I am learning a lot and still trying to find what works for me.
I have heard a lot of soapers letting their lye water and oils reach room temperature. Given that it is winter and in my cellar, my soaping room temperature is currently 66 degrees fahrenheit. So my question then is what is too cold for room temperature soaping?
I have heard of false trace occurring with harder oils and low temps, and have heard the cons of too high temps, then throw in gel phase, soda ash, and everything else in between it makes my head spin! Haha I am looking for that happy medium and less failures. Thank you so much! Hi Sarah! So, to determine mixing temps I go by feel — and looks. Feel as in feeling the outside of the oil container and the outside of the lye container. In winter this usually means that I need to stand the lye solution in a hot water bath for a while if it has been made the day before.
By looks I mean that the oil mix needs to be fully clear and transparent. At what temp this will be the case depends on what oils are in the mix, ambient temp etc. If the mix is high in e. If the oil mix is already cloudy and you add cool lye to it you may end up with false trace or just uneven-looking, spotty soap. Thanks Clara. I never fail to learn something new or get an interesting perspective on soaping when I read your stuff. Made the ghost swirl several months ago and loved it. Perhaps this weekend.
So glad you liked it. Clara, your soap is inspiring. I have been imagining all sorts of designs in my head but the one design I knew for sure that I wanted to try out was a cream and white swirl. I imagined I would be using titanium dioxide alongside uncolored soap to achieve this affect, but now I know I will be trying your ghost swirl technique because the affects are truly elegant and beautiful. I wanted to offer a hypothesis as to where the darker line that appears between the high and low water soaps might come from.
Is it possible that the water content is attempting to equalize itself? Diffusion might be a better word. The water concentration across the soap is not equal and in its attempt to equalize itself, the water moves away from the highly concentrated areas toward the areas of lower concentration. You can see that the center area of the high water soap is a lighter color than the borders and this would make sense if the water migrated from this area towards the low water areas causing it not to gel as completely. So what you end up with is lower water lightest area , high water darkest area and medium water medium lightness area.
At least that is what makes sense to me. However, your glycerine river experiment might debunk my theory. A more fully gelled area would not wear away more quickly, but in that experiment you said that this is exactly what happened to the darker area bordering the high and low water areas. Because of this you predicted the same thing for the ghost swirl soap in your follow up blog. Can you update us? The fact that the visible differences in shade and hue remain after cure is, I think, an indication that what we see is not the moisture directly, but the internal structure that came about due to a particular initial moisture level in combination with a particular heat development pattern.
I still think that part of the explanation to the dark borderlines is tension development between the unsynchronized expansion and contraction patterns in the low and high water soaps. But extra moisture in those borderlines may well be part of the equation too. That may be due to the fine swirls with lots of fine lines running parallel. Also, the oil mix in this palm-free soap is generally more easily soluble than the one I used for the glycerine river soaps and that could have an impact too.
What water ratio shall I put in the soap calc? And how will I split that in 3 parts? Keep on the inspiring job you do. Once you know how much lye you need in total you divide the total amount in three equal parts. Then the water for your three lye solutions: use e.
For the high-water soap you can use 2. With your three equal parts of lye you can make either two-low water soaps and one high-water soap or two high-water soaps and one low-water soap. Once you have your three lye solutions you divide your mixed oils in three equal parts and then you make your three soaps. Your soaps are such an ispiration, you are on the top of my beloved soapers list!
Have a wonderful day, mine will be for sure!
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Looking forward to seeing more inspiring soaps from you, Giota. So, i tried this last night…. I was very careful to not overblend and then found that the high water soap accelerated so much faste than the low water soap…. Byt despite this it came out really nice. I will tive this soap to some of my friends with sensitivities. Thanks for sharing this. Of course this leads to more questions…. Lots of eye-opening things in this project — for me too. Interesting for instence that your high water soap accelerated faster, the recommendation being that one should use more water if one wants to avoid acceleration.
This soap is intriguing and beautiful. I have been making soap for 20 years and your explanation makes sense to me. It just seems a bit risky to me to do this. I am still striving for the perfect bar of soap. Hi Diane. In winter my indoor temperature here is 16C. If the batch is small the bowls and utensils are going to absorb so much heat that your hard oils may not melt properly. Very elegant soap. I am learning to make soap and I wish I can learn from you in my country.
Inspiration and curiosity know no borders — just keep on being interested and curious and you will learn lots. Would it be ok just to make two or three small batches of soap with different levels of water concentration? Of course. There are no rules so you can play with it as you like. Hello, Clara! Clara, this soap is so very beautiful. If I can ever make a soap half so lovely I will be very, very happy. Thank you.
You inspire me! Hi Clara!! I hope you understand!! Do you know Mendrulandia Calc? Can you see it and tell me something about it? I usually maje a soap with 30 concentration Maybe I have to play with that and see what happen A lot of kisses from Tequila land. Hi Mayra. Give me pointers pls. Will keep you posted if we start sending out newsletters. Well, as it turned out, this […]. All I can say is WOW! That is such a beautiful soap and so interesting how you achieved it.
With enough determination, practice and curiosity you can pull off almost anything. Happy soaping — keep it up! So I experimented using rooibos tea, and had planned to […]. Amazingly beautiful…wow…. This wonderful technic truly inspired me to do it again very soon. Thank you so much. Shame on me.. Meanwhile I did have infused 26 different kinds of herb in olive oil with cold infused method to preserved the quality of herbal benefits , Not particularly in joy with all the vibrant coloring when I was soaping.
Now if applied with your Ghost Swirl, certainly there will be a lot more possibilities to the natural coloring and design in my future batch. I thought I was the only one! Can you share a link to your Facebook group, and can I join you? I have seen the ghost swirl but now I have read how it was created and seen your work of it, I have to try it. This is a perfect time for me. I have been doing lots of colourful soaps with swirls and just recently I made a plain soap with pink clay on the bottom, cocoa pencil line and the top was the natural green of the avacado oil I used.
It just looked wonderful. I was wondering just the other day if I could incorporate different types of soap in one. Coconut oil, avacado, and yellow olive with Cocoa Butter to see what I could do with it. A colour variation with no colour, even natural ones added. Do you think it would work or would it be a mess? Gelled and ungelled portions of all those oils should look interesting.
And why not try them all once ungelled and once gelled. Sounds like exciting things to try. I MUST try this — so cool!!! I think I will also then try it with a single color maybe mica?? Thanks so much for sharing your info!! It works very well with a single colour. It will show you exactly how varying lye solution strengths affect your soap during the […]. I love your soap — very beautiful. I have a question — my oven will only start at Is there anyway for me to do a ghost swirl? You could just isolate the mould with towels or blankets to make sure that your high water soap enters full gel phase.
Somewhat new to soaping but so addicted to it already. And love love love your entry on this experiment! Well done!! Hi Fay. Thank you for sharing your experiment with this cool design! I soap as a hobby, and I just started several months ago.